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   Minara Masjid is not the only place for food on Ramazar nights... (June 6, 1986)

Minara Masjid is not the only place for food on Ramazar nights, there are other restaurant, scattered about the Muslim quarters of the city.

Close to Minara Masjid, near the Bhendi Bazar Junction, now renovated, famous through the year for it nalli andnihari, the softest and most tender meat in the world and marrow that melts in the month. You eat it with soft bread, dip it in the pure broth made rich with the melting fat

Next to it, right at the junction, is Shalimar with its nawabi breads, firnis, the Lucknow falooda, now known as the Bhedi Bazar falooda or Pahelwan's falooda (Pahelwan being the proprietor of the place). Every Idd, it illustrates its advertisement with a large goat and the goat is saying: "Come eat me. "Rather grotesque, but effective.

Opposite Shalimar, in what is known as Parsi Gulley, with people (not Parsis) sleeping in the middle of the road, is H.M. Refiq, a restaurant which specialises in what I understand is that part of UP where the story of Shatranj Ke Kheladi was locted. It has an air-conditioned annexe, but to experience the real atmosphere, it is a good idea to eat in the general eating area with the devout at the end of their day of fast.

Next, on the other side of the Bhendi Bazar traffic lights is the Bohri Mohalla on one side, the Irani Mosque and the settlement of the Shias on the other.

The Bohris are said to be the best eaters in India and the Bohri Mohalla is always good for a meal. Nav handi and baara handi shops abound, the meats and dals are cooked over slow fires in the handis through the night for the pre-dawn meals. By the time the handis are opened, half the meat it with the large, tough kabab rotis.

The old No. 10 tram route, from J. J. Hospital to Corner of Grant Road, is linced with Muslim restaurants, with benches and tables laid out in the open on the pavements. You may let your nose guide you through an aroma of kababs, kadai meats, frying jalebis, thick lassis.

And, further down, at Nagpada, is Sarvis, still one of Bombay's famous kabab restaurants. During Ramazan, through the nightm it also serves an Irani paya in a large thick bowl. It is said that if you have a bowl of Sarvi's paya, tow sticks of kababs and two tandooris in the night, you can go without a meal in the day.

 
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